LOCATION: AGRA, INDIA
NOVEMBER 16, 2004

Today we visited the Taj Mahal in Agra. It was built by a maharaja grieving for his wife who died when giving birth to her 14th child. It is listed as one of the architectural wonders of the world. Well at least the eighth wonder of the world. Officials are trying to get the Wonders of the World list changed so that it is listed as the seventh wonder. One of the first things I noticed about the Taj were the reflecting pools. They actually had water in them, and, more amazing, the water was clean. Being an Aquarius I wanted to jump in. But, a man with a whistle paced back and forth, blowing on the whistle to move people back from the water. It was a futile job, like trying to make a hole in water, the people just flowed in behind him. I think the tigers we didn't see at the Sariska Tiger Reserve, should be chained to posts around the pool to ward off disobedient tourists. While tourists are one problem, India's national treasure is being plundered in another way. Nature, or man depending on how you look at it, is stealing the Taj bit-by-bit. The level of sulfurous and nitrous compounds in the air (created by auto exhaust and industry) creates acid rain that eats the marble and sandstone that make up the buildings. Monitors on the building indicated that the danger level is being exceeded on a regular basis. We saw slabs of sandstone being carved to duplicate portions of the surrounding structured that have decayed. Given enough time, the whole building may eventually be replaced.

In Agra we had another chance for media coverage. At a press conference, with a bank of ten microphones, television cameras rolling, and an assembly of newspaper reporters, we answered questions. The big question was how two foreigners who don't speak the language, don't know the terrain, and know little about camels were able to make it from Bikaner to Agra. To them we were the "pagal hai gora" (crazy foreigners). One of the bigger news services then said they wanted film of Dan, the camels, and I with the Taj Mahal in the background. This meant we'd have to cross the city. With an auto rickshaw leading the way, Dan and I, who have become considerably more adept at handling the camels in heavy traffic, set off on a dash across town to beat the setting sun. Television crews set up along the way recorded our passage. We made it to the river bank on the opposite side of the Taj. Then with the Taj seeming to float in a rising mist, we conducted yet another interview as the sun set. Reuters News service picked up the photo and spread it across their international wire service http://www.reuters.com. At the end of the interview we walked our camels back through darkened streets to where we were staying for the night.

Next goal is to make it to the Ganges River. A number of people have lost bets. Yes, people are betting on how far we will get. Many people are surprised at how far we have made it.

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