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Overview map and itinerary

We arrive in Delhi, India on August 30, 2004. We then travel by train to Bikaner near the India/Pakistan border. From Bikaner, we set out into the Great Indian Desert (also known as the Thar Desert) to buy camels. After equipping our caravan, we ride towards Lucknow and hope to be there in early October. Then we curve north towards the Himalayas, eventually reaching Kathmandu, Nepal in late October. Leaving Nepal, we begin our elevation rise onto the Himalayan plateau with our arrival in Lhasa, Tibet in mid-November. We fly home on December 3.

Of course, whether or not we can keep to this time line depends on our ability to keep the camels healthy, avoid bandits, erect solar light systems in remote villages efficiently, cross swollen rivers, and handle whatever else comes our way.

Detailed maps

Map 1

The trip starts in the Great Indian Desert where we travel to Bikaner, the location of the Bikaner Camel Research Station. Along the route, we have planned some interesting side trips. In Deshnoke, we plan to visit a temple where rats are worshipped. Near Shahpura, we will stop at the Sariska Tiger Reserve to look for the big cats. In Agra, we will stroll through the Taj Mahal.

Map 2

On the next leg of our trip, we approach the border with Nepal. We anticipate the crossing at Raxaul Bazar to be a rowdy affair. Some friends and family will come down from Nepal to greet us and smooth our entrance into the Mountain Kingdom.

Map 3

Getting across the border into China (Tibet) is going to be one of our challenges. The highest pass we encounter in Tibet is 16,793 feet.

Itinerary

The first columns in the following chart show where we expect to be, mileage covered, and when. But goals do not always go according to plan. We will need to make adjustments for how many miles a day our camels can cover, where water holes and good campsites are located, sandstorms, bandits, and grocery shopping. The last two columns will be updated to show what actually happens.

Day
Date
Miles
Location
Actual Miles Actual Location
1-5 8/28-9/1 Fly from San Francisco or London to Delhi, India. Rest days and setting up train tickets to Bikaner
6 9/2 Train to Bikaner
7-11 9/3-9/8 Travel to Bikaner Research Station in Thar Desert. Buy camels, packs, and other camel gear.
11 9/9 25 Deshnok and site of Karni Mata Temple. Camp at Nokha
12-14 9/10-9/12 100 Towards Chhapar then arrive in Sujangarh
15-16 9/13-9/14 150 Towards Sikar
17 9/15 175 Camp near Udaipur (Udaipurvati)
18 9/16 Rest Day
19 9/17 200 Camp Kanwat
20 9/18 225 Camp Shahpura
21 9/19 Visit Sariska Tiger Reserve
22 9/20 250 Camp Thana Khazi
23 9/21 275 Camp Malkhera
24 9/22 300 Camp Nagar
25 9/23 325 Camp Deeg
26 9/24 350 Camp near Mathura or Bharatpur
27 9/25 375 Camp Agra
28 9/26 Rest Day. Visit Taj Mahal
29 9/27 400 Camp before Bah
30 9/28 425 Camp Bah
31 9/29 450 Camp Etawah
32 9/30 475 Camp Pukhrayan
33 10/1 500 Camp Kanpur
34 10/2 525 Camp Unnao
35 10/3 Rest Day
36 10/4 550 Camp Lucknow
37 10/5 575 Camp Nawabganj (Bara Banki)
38 10/6 600 Camp Rudauli
39 10/7 625 Camp Faizabad
40 10/8 650 Camp Between Ayodha and Basti
41 10/9 675 Camp Basti
42 10/10 Rest Day
43 10/11 700 Camp Gorakhpur
44 10/12 725 Camp Kasia
45 10/13 750 Camp Tamkuhi
46 10/14 775 Camp Gopalgani
47 10/15 800 Camp before Motihari
48 10/16 825 Camp between Motihari and Raxaul Bazar
49 10/17 Rest Day
50 10/18 850 Cross Border, camp Birganj, NEPAL
51 10/19 875 Camp before Hetauda
52 10/20 900 Camp Lalitpur
53-56 10/21-10/24 925 Camp Kathmandu: Rest Days
57 10/25 950 Camp outside Dolaighat, pass through Barabise, pass through Ghumthang
58 10/26 975 Camp outside Kodari Pass, TIBET
59-61 10/27-10/29 1,100 Camp between Nyalam and Tingri
62-64 10/30-11/3 1,175 Camp between Tingri and Lhaze (Lhstse Dzong), Rest Day
65-67 11/4-11/5 1,250 Camp between Lhaze and Xigaze (Zhigatse)
68-69 11/6-11/7 1,300 Camp between Xigaze and Dagzhuka
70-72 11/8-11/10 1,350 Camp between Dagzhuka and Quxu (Chhushut)
73-76 11/11 1,375 Camp Lhasa
77-96
97 12/3 Delhi, India to San Francisco

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